We have tried to make our recommended routes section more than a copy of the routes with the most stars in the guidebook. This section will be changing and expanding over time, so check back occassionally. Most, but not all, of these routes/formations fall into the "short" hike category. Notations indicate longer approaches.
DISCLAIMER! We provide Mountain Project links as a convenience to our visitors. We have no affiliation with Mountain Project, nor do we accept an liabilty associated with the accuracy of their listings.
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Safe, Easy to Moderate Climbs (up to 5.9)
Easy Lead Cautions
The following are warnings based on re-occurring feedback concerning the climbs:
- Tourist Trap:
Thrill Hammer (5.8 - Guide pg. 39 ): This is a great climb, but it's a stiff lead - very sustained, with a difficult finish. Not recommended for your first 5.8 lead.
- The Monolith:
Direct Route (5.6 - pg. 73 ) Although this is a classic, it is NOT recommend for a beginning lead because it is quite runout.
Moderate Climbs to Hard Climbs (5.9 to 5.10a)
Hard Climbs (5.10b and Up)
Top Roping Options
There are two good top rope areas on the East Side:
- Teaching Rock (aka Top Rope Wall) (pg. 86 of the Brad Young guide)
- The Carousel (pg. 155) The routes on this formation are shorter, but it's further from the crowds and gets more sun.
For additional details, see our FAQ section.
Top Ropes here are harder to come by, but try:
- Passion Play (5.7 - pg. 258) This is a great climb and a good (tricky) lead. It is possible to walk up to the anchors to set a top rope.
- The Bouldering Rock (pg. 270) This rock sports some great problems. One of the faces has bolts at the top for TRing.
- The Rookie (5.10+ - pg. 271) Want to play on a really steep jug climb? You can 3rd/4th class to the top of this one and TR. Bring long slings.
- Smiling Simian (pg. 301) - Subject to closures for raptor nesting! This boulder has several good TR's on it, but the only "safe" way up is a stiff 5.7 lead. After the closures are lifted in July you should check it out.
For more details, see our FAQ section.