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Letters and Editorials

The FOP web site provides you a forum to express your opinions to the rest of the climbing community. We need your letters, rants and comments.

Try out our letter submission form. Submit a Letter

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Topics

· (05/07)   Park Management Plan
· (03/07)   Message for Glenn
· (11/06)   Pinch or Lynch
· (09/06)   Overchalking Holds
· (05/06)   Top Roping
· (04/06)   Old Original
· (01/06)   Time Stands Still
· (01/06)   Costanoan
· (09/05)   How strong is Pinnacles rock?
· (08/05)   Viewing Condors
· (05/05)   Mussy Tow Hooks
· (04/05)   2005 Closure Violations
· (04/05)   Aluminum Rappel Rings
· (03/05)   New Guidebook
· (03/05)   West Side Gate Update
· (03/05)   Rebolting Update
· (03/05)   Bridwell Bolts Retrobolted
· (03/05)   Old Original
· (02/05)   After hours park access
· (11/04)   Bynum's Spire - Original Route
· (06/04)   Stupendous Man
· (05/04)   Pinnacles Bashing
· (05/04)   Hot Lava Lucy Downgrade
· (01/04)   Respect for First Ascents in Progress
· (09/03)   FOP Loses A Friend
· (09/03)   Regarding Old Original
· (08/03)   Cuidado
· (06/03)   Route Info Request
· (03/03)   Bolt Hangers and Bad Bolts
· (03/03)   Bolt Replacement and Power Drills
· (03/03)   Back Of The Hand
· (03/03)   Subterranean Tango
· (02/03)   Trauma History
· (02/03)   After Hours Fines
· (12/02)   H&L - Feather Canyon
· (11/02)   Guidebook Search
· (09/02)   Climber Registry
· (09/02)   Climbing Over Trails
· (07/02)   Pinnacles Guidebook
· (06/02)   Improved Bolting Technology
· (05/02)   Defining Bold
· (05/02)   Bad Bolts
· (04/02)   Bolts on The Hatchet
· (04/02)   Finding The Salathe
· (03/02)   Pinnacles Is Outstanding
· (11/01)   Camping On The West Side
· (07/01)   Re-bolting Old Original
· (07/01)   Searching for a Route's History
· (06/01)   How did "Armed With Madness" get it's name?
· (05/01)   Climber Accident
· (04/01)   Glue-in Bolts At The Park
· (03/01)   Added Bolt On Subterrainian Tango
· (12/00)   The Park After Dark
· (11/00)   Raptor Closures
· (09/00)   Establishing New Routes
· (04/00)   Climber Camping
· (02/00)   A Request for Information
· (01/00)   Bouldering at The Pinns
· (11/99)   A Tribute
· (08/99)   Broken Hold on TR Rock?
· (06/99)   Preserving the Past
· (06/99)   Bolting Controversy
· (06/96)   The Great Debate
· (03/96)   Rebolting With Care

Park Management Plan

Brian S. writes, "I am concerned about the wording of the draft Purpose and Significance statements outlined" (5/2007)
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Message for Glenn

Roger G. writes, "" (3/2007)
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Pinch or Lynch

Robert L. writes, "What can you tell me about Pinch or Lynch? ..." (11/2006)
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FOP responds to Robert L., "I am afraid FOP has limited information." (11/2006)
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Overchalking Holds

George L. writes, "Normally I do not mind some chalk on a hold but..." (9/2006)
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Top Roping

thom p. writes, "Top roping at Pinnacles." (5/2006)
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FOP responds to thom p., "Go West, Young Man!" (5/2006)
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Erik S. responds to FOP, "There is also top rope rock aka guide rock aka... ..." (8/2006)
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FOP responds to Erik S., "Thanks for the tip!" (8/2006)
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Old Original

Dan K. writes, "Memorial Day on Old Original" (4/2006)
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FOP responds to Dan K., "Tips For Old Original" (5/2006)
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Time Stands Still

Tom D. writes, "To the authors of "Time Stands Still"" (1/2006)
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FOP responds to Tom D., "Follow up on the "R"" (1/2006)
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Brad Y. responds to Tom D., "The route is on unusually good rock. The climbing is first class. But the first clip is going to get someone hurt." (1/2006)
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Erik S. responds to Tom D., "I am really torn about adding a bolt to the bottom." (8/2006)
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Costanoan

Robert L. writes, "Is the rating correct and the description in the Pinnacles Guide reasonable." (1/2006)
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Erik S. responds to Robert L., "...just on case anyone else is interested." (9/2006)
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How strong is Pinnacles rock?

Holden G. writes, "I was wodering if you have any info on the strength of the rock." (9/2005)
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FOP responds to Holden G., "The quality of the rock can vary dramatically over an area of just inches." (9/2005)
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Viewing Condors

Gerard H. writes, "I am interested in seeing California Condors." (8/2005)
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FOP responds to Gerard H., "" (8/2005)
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Mussy Tow Hooks

Tom D. writes, "I have recently been replacing some of the lower-off anchors with the new mussy tow hooks..." (5/2005)
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2005 Closure Violations

C. Muldoon writes, "...help spread the word about the importance of respecting the advisory areas." (4/2005)
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Aluminum Rappel Rings

Doug C. writes, "Are SMC alluminum Rappel rings safe?" (4/2005)
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FOP responds to Doug C., "SMC Aluminum Rap Rings (or Descent Links) have a very high strength to weight ratio..." (4/2005)
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New Guidebook

Chris H. writes, "Any idea if a 3rd edition is in the works?" (3/2005)
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FOP responds to Chris H., "FOP is skeptical that there will be any new guidebook before 2006." (3/2005)
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karl a. responds to Chris H., "...Brad Young and friends have been working on a new guidebook." (3/2005)
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Erik S. responds to Chris H., "Heck with the guidebook, go climb...." (5/2005)
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West Side Gate Update

Larry A. writes, "...the new West Side gate..." (3/2005)
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Pinnacles C. responds to Larry A., "We've gotten great feedback about the new gate... but we've had some problems" (4/2005)
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Rebolting Update

Tom D. writes, "Update on bolting work" (3/2005)
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karl a. responds to Tom D., "...lower anchor on Subterranean Tango?" (3/2005)
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Tom D. responds to karl a., "...sugestion about a better anchor position for Subterrinean Tango." (5/2005)
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karl a. responds to karl a., "I finally got around to adding that anchor to Subterranean Tango." (4/2007)
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Bridwell Bolts Retrobolted

Justin V. writes, "Bolts have been added where there were previously none!" (3/2005)
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Brad Y. responds to Justin V., "I rebolted Bridwell Bolts (not retrobolted), finishing in about 2001." (3/2005)
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Justin V. responds to Brad Y., "Let us respect each other for the ethics we share in common." (3/2005)
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Rob B. responds to Justin V., "...meet up and inspect the bolt positions..." (3/2005)
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Justin V. responds to Rob B., "Absolutely, I'm down. I'll be away until the first..." (3/2005)
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Brad Y. responds to Justin V., "Responding to Justin's response: Let me start ..." (3/2005)
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karl a. responds to Justin V., "Every aid line gets dumbed down over time..." (3/2005)
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Old Original

P F. writes, "Is the descent really that mossy, slick retreat down ito the gulley and exiting by the caves?" (3/2005)
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C.C. responds to P F., "Descending Old Original" (3/2005)
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After hours park access

Larry A. writes, "The real credit goes to former Chief Jerry Case..." (2/2005)
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Bynum's Spire - Original Route

Lea R. writes, "Bynum's Spire - Original Route" (11/2004)
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FOP responds to Lea R., "Yes! It has." (1/2005)
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Stupendous Man

Martin M. writes, "there is a huge block missing..." (6/2004)
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Erik S. responds to Martin M., "Just climbed it. There is no change in the rating." (5/2005)
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Pinnacles Bashing

Marc W. writes, "ěHeroesî Bash Pinnacles" (5/2004)
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Hot Lava Lucy Downgrade

Joshua C. writes, "Why was hot lava lucy downgraded?" (5/2004)
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karl a. responds to Joshua C., "I think .12c is pretty accurate" (3/2005)
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Erik S. responds to karl a., "There is no change in the rating..." (5/2005)
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karl a. responds to Erik S., "When did it get downgraded to .12b? ..." (6/2005)
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Respect for First Ascents in Progress

karl a. writes, "I'm sure most people respect other people's projects, but..." (1/2004)
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jeff d. responds to karl a., "I'm sorry to have to report this to you." (3/2005)
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Rob B. responds to jeff d., "...ownership is not all it's cracked up to be..." (3/2005)
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Bruce H. responds to jeff d., "I think there should be some sort of ownership limit..." (3/2005)
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Brad Y. responds to jeff d., "If you thought Karl was hogging a line you could have contacted him..." (3/2005)
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C.C. responds to jeff d., "...about Karl's project on the Monolith West Face" (3/2005)
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karl a. responds to jeff d., "...the route in question went up from first bolt to last bolt and redpoint in 15 months." (3/2005)
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Erik S. responds to jeff d., "The rest of the "old timers" here may be politically correct..." (6/2005)
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Audrey B. writes, "Thanks Brad, for a thoughful and postitive response to Jeff's letter." (3/2005)
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FOP Loses A Friend

FOP writes, "On Thursday, September 25th, Andy Artz (Pinnacles Ranger) died of pneumonia..." (9/2003)
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Neal L. responds to FOP, "I look forward to the future..." (9/2003)
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June O. responds to Neal L., "To Neal D Labrie.....I'm kind of in shock right no..." (9/2004)
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Nate F. responds to June O., "I can understand how travelers like June could meet Andy and immediately feel the warm qualities others have described." (9/2005)
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Chad M. responds to FOP, "I've been thinking up ways to acknowledge his passing..." (9/2003)
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Eileen M. responds to FOP, "As a widow of another special man that went before..." (10/2003)
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Regarding Old Original

Chris K. writes, "We climbed Old Original on Machete Ridge last week..." (9/2003)
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Cuidado

Rein H. writes, "Has anyone climbed Cuidado" (8/2003)
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Route Info Request


Bolt Hangers and Bad Bolts

thomas r. writes, "Regarding "spinner" bolt hangers." (3/2003)
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Bolt Replacement and Power Drills

Robert B. writes, "What about a temporary permit to use a motorized drill..." (3/2003)
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Back Of The Hand

Kevin W. writes, "...a bit concerned about rock quality." (3/2003)
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lithic a. responds to Kevin W., "The rock quality of the initial traverse is ssskk-eh-ttch-ch-eee. " (3/2003)
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lithic a. responds to lithic a., "This is (another) reply to Kevin W. regarding Back..." (3/2003)
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lithic a. responds to lithic a., "...so I finally lead the thing." (1/2005)
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ricardo l. responds to Kevin W., "I find that cams behind flakes are very suspect at pinnacles." (3/2003)
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Subterranean Tango

Audrey B. writes, "this person has added some serious danger to the route" (3/2003)
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Tom D. responds to Audrey B., "About the 10a Version of Subterrainian Tango from The First Ascentionist" (3/2003)
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Audrey B. responds to Tom D., "I simply want to extend a very belated thank you t..." (6/2003)
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Joe D. responds to Audrey B., "Our group of climbers was seriously torked..." (3/2003)
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Bruce H. responds to Audrey B., "...it seems entirely ethical to me that this bolt remain in place" (3/2003)
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Trauma History

lithic a. writes, "...some leader took a heinous fall on Trauma..." (2/2003)
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After Hours Fines

Evan T. writes, "$100 per person!" (2/2003)
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FOP responds to Evan T., "Policy Clarity" (2/2003)
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H&L - Feather Canyon

John C. writes, "Has anyone climbed H&L Feather Canyon recently?" (12/2002)
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Guidebook Search

Robert W. writes, "I'm looking for a copy of the old Chuck Richards g..." (11/2002)
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Climber Registry

Rob B. writes, "Ostensibly the climbing register is to be used for the following..." (9/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Rob B., "Distrust breeds Distrust" (9/2002)
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Robert B. responds to Rob B., "In thinking about the Climber Registries, I've noticed..." (4/2003)
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Climbing Over Trails

Robert B. writes, "Climbing is not allowed on routes where rock fall or dropped gear might injure people..." (9/2002)
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Neal L. responds to Robert B., "As it stands now there are some differences in allowances to this rule between east and west districts." (9/2002)
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Robert B. responds to Neal L., "Neil L. writes: "We here in the East District ..." (9/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Robert B., "Why did the park service apply this rule..." (9/2002)
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Neal L. responds to Erik S., "...the completion of the General Management Plan..." (9/2002)
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Pinnacles Guidebook

Dave C. writes, "Looking for old Pinnacles guide." (7/2002)
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Robert B. responds to Dave C., "...try the internet and look for "out of print" book sellers." (7/2002)
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Improved Bolting Technology

Larry A. writes, "We could meet sometime, discuss techniques, share some bolting history..." (6/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Larry A., "Definitely interested." (12/2002)
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Defining Bold

Erik S. writes, "Should bold routes be encouraged at the Pinnacles?" (5/2002)
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Kelly R. responds to Erik S., "I do not think that bold routes should be encouraged, at the Pinns or anywhere else." (9/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Kelly R., "...people should also not be encouraged to put up safe routes?" (10/2002)
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Kelly R. responds to Erik S., "In responding to my letter, Erik says "If bold rou..." (10/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Kelly R., "Ground up ascents can go at any level..." (10/2002)
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Bad Bolts

Paolo M. writes, "...what I donít like is finding a rusty piece of crap instead of a new shiny bolt..." (5/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Paolo M., "Boldness is a part of Pinnacles history that goes way back..." (5/2002)
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Paolo M. responds to Erik S., "Erik Probably you're right, It was my first time ..." (5/2002)
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Erik S. responds to Paolo M., "I think you will be surprised at the diversity and quantity of rock..." (5/2002)
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Bolts on The Hatchet

Bob D. writes, "...what happened to the bolts on the Hatchet?" (1/2002)
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Ted R. responds to Bob D., "In response to the bolts on The Hatchet..." (4/2002)
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Kelly R. responds to Ted R., "The bolts on the Hatchet are there?" (4/2002)
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Robert B. responds to Kelly R., "Bolts replaced on the Hatchet" (5/2002)
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Finding The Salathe

Charlie M. writes, "I was interested in trying The Salathe..." (4/2002)
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Kelly R. responds to Charlie M., "The route should be pretty easy to spot..." (4/2002)
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Pinnacles Is Outstanding

Charlie M. writes, "I made my first trip to Pinnacles this past week - outstanding! " (3/2002)
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Camping On The West Side

Elizabeth M. writes, "Why is camping no longer permitted on the West side?" (11/2001)
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FOP responds to Elizabeth M., "The official word on the West Side campground is ..." (11/2001)
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Re-bolting Old Original

Larry A. writes, "Restoration Work has been started on Old Original." (7/2001)
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Searching for a Route's History

Stevi D. writes, "Just a couple of comments about "Au Natural" the crack to the left of The "Wee Little One"..." (7/2001)
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How did "Armed With Madness" get it's name?

Bruce M. writes, "Can anyone tell me how..." (6/2001)
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Erik S. responds to Bruce M., "I did get the name from the book." (6/2001)
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Climber Accident

Steve G. writes, "...any mention of the accident or the condition of the climber." (5/2001)
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FOP responds to Steve G., "News about climbing accident." (5/2001)
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Glue-in Bolts At The Park

Rob B. writes, "I would like to see the info on this rebolting." (4/2001)
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FOP responds to Rob B., "About the new titanium glue-in bolts at the Park." (5/2001)
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Jay G. responds to FOP, "It's great to see old bolts being replaced with glue-ins at Pinnacles." (7/2001)
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Added Bolt On Subterrainian Tango

Tom D. writes, "So people are talking shit about the new bolt on Subterranean Tango..." (3/2001)
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Erik S. responds to Tom D., "Yes, I was probably one of the ones that was heard talking shit..." (5/2002)
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The Park After Dark

Robert B. writes, "...a plan implemented for early/late access to Pinnacles" (12/2000)
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Kelly R. responds to Robert B., "Exactly how does the system work at Red Rocks?" (12/2000)
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Robert B. responds to Robert B., "...the key ingredient is having a combination lock..." (12/2000)
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Raptor Closures

Lou writes, "Does anybody have any comments on closures due to nesting raptors?" (11/2000)
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Establishing New Routes

Jerry C. writes, "...a suggestion to the climbing community, and those members actively creating new routes" (9/2000)
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Climber Camping

Robert W. writes, "...use the picnic area next to the lot as a seasonal climbers' campground..." (4/2000)
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A Request for Information

Ed M. writes, "Does anyone know the history of McCabe Canyon at the base of the park?" (2/2000)
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Bouldering at The Pinns

Sean R. writes, "No rope, no gear, no bolts, no arguments. When is the bouldering going to have a guide book? I enjoy the info here on this page though some of your letter writers might improve there abilities if they climbed more and ANALized less." (1/2000)
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Robert B. responds to Sean R., "Without thoughtful discussion land managers will run us over..." (2/2000)
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A Tribute

Robert W. writes, "Rap-bolters don't deserve to sniff Holmgren's shoes." (11/1999)
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Broken Hold on TR Rock?

Jeremy B. writes, "Has anyone noticed a hold that's broken off about ten feet up at the first crux?" (8/1999)
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Preserving the Past

Robert B. writes, "...do we have an obligation *not to remove and replace* some of these older pieces with shiny SS Metolius or Fixe hangers." (6/1999)
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Kelly R. responds to Robert B., "Usually, these "joke" pieces are placed where the likelihood of a fall is pretty slim..." (6/2000)
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Bolting Controversy

Robert B. writes, "The new route between Angstrom's away and Rat Race is an abomination." (6/1999)
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Stevi D. responds to Robert B., "C'mon Robert the route isn't that bad!" (6/1999)
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Erik S. responds to Robert B., "I think the new route to the left of Rat Race should be removed..." (2/2000)
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Stevi D. responds to Erik S., "I don't think you can compare The Wee Little One to the deforestation at Castle Rock." (2/2000)
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Robert B. responds to Stevi D., "Our role as First Ascentionists should to be to think about the potential impact BEFORE placing the bolts." (2/2000)
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Stevi D. responds to Robert B., "Good point and if I had thought about it more I may not have put the route up." (2/2000)
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The Great Debate

Kelly R. writes, "Recent new route development at the Pinnacles has prompted me to write a few thoughts concerning the history of how routes have traditionally been established at Pinnacles National Monument." (6/1996)
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Justin V. responds to Kelly R., "...there should be no reason why both sport and traditionally established routes cannon coexist at the Pinnacles." (8/1996)
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Kelly R. responds to Justin V., "Before you hike to the top of that line, think if you can instead start at the ground. Try it, and I'm sure you'll be seduced by the adventure of making a true first ascent." (9/1996)
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Erik J. responds to Justin V., "...just because the route is put in from the top down does not mean it will be safe." (9/1996)
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Rebolting With Care

Kelly R. writes, "In recent years, retro-bolting has taken on new dimensions. I've even heard proclamations claiming it will be the next big issue to face the climbing community." (3/1996)
    - read more -


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