Pinnacles Route Information 

Steep rock leads to a 2 bolt anchor.

Beware the loose rock near the top.

• Pull the balancy crux at the second bolt. Be careful not to step on the delicate micro crimp that makes the crux possible (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt).
• Fun 5.11 pockets and knobs take you to the sixth bolt.
• Two more bolts of 5.12 climbing take you to the lip. Be careful not to step on those important handholds (even with the sixth bolt) as you pull yourself over the lip.
• Easy climbing on good holds takes you to the top of the monolith.

This route stays wet much longer than normal, so it shouldn't be climbed for at least 4 days after a rain.

FA Details: All bolts placed from stance and aid.

Someone has broken one of the crux holds. I have not managed to figure out this part yet and have not made it back since it was broken. It may be a bit trickier now.

The route saw it's second ascent by Duane Coughlan on 4/17/05. Duane did it without the hold that broke and he confirms that the grade is .12d (even for short guys like him).

Find a deep cleft just south and west of Frothy Flake. Chimney/stem sideways to the west for 25 feet to a bolt. Climb up the water streak for 8 feet to the next bolt. Run it out 40-50 feet to the ridge and find the third bolt. Make delicate moves (5.6) up the ridge to the top of the pinnacle.

Bolts and chains for the 50' rappel to the start.

Four bolts up to the break and one more on the slab to a two bolt anchor.

Ten years after placing the first bolt the remainder of the route was completed in ONE day!

Topo available on Clint's Site.

FA Details: Ground up

The opening move is a very difficult step across from the block at the Northwest corner of Flat Iron to the face above. A bolt adequately protects it.

The route has 5 bolts placed from stance. The first two are Rawl 3" x 3/8". The third is a 3 1/2" x 3/8" Rawl. The last two are 2 1/2" x 3/8" Rawls. We climbed it from the ground up.

John placed the initial bolt many months ago. We both went up at that time and tried to drill a second bolt hole, but were intimidated and backed off.

We went up today to see if things were as bad as we remembered and actually made progress. Tag team drilling from a very delicate stance resulted in a fine hole for the second bolt. John pounded a Rawl in, but apparently lost the wedge in the process. We couldnít tighten it down. It was good for marginal protection, however. He stepped up and drilled another hole somewhat above the second bolt and put in a functioning Rawl. He then pried out the questionable bolt and abandoned the hole. He then climbed on to drill three more bolts, one after some 5.10 moves, another from two toe-holds that scarcely deserve the name.

Larry Arthur and friends came to climb and camo various routes on Flat Iron. They watched us do some of the work and visited with us periodically throughout the afternoon.

FA Details: Ground up from stance

First pitch (5.10+) with some loose rock. Runout between the first and second bolts, also between the second and third. Twin cruxes are here. The first is overhanging and technical on big holds. The second is thin, reachy and steep on small holds leading to a tough clip.

Bolts (Rawl 3/8" by 2 1/2" and 3") placed from stance, ground up. Two 3 1/2" Rawls with rappel hangers mark the end of the route at the mossy overhang.

I didn't think I was up to new-routing today, but J.C. had other plans. I actually climbed about as well as I can any more. I'll pay for it with sore muscles tomorrow.

John C. did the heavy lifting on this one. Several of the bolts he placed from stance were among the bravest and best I've seen done. I can just barely hang on and clip the third bolt. I have no idea how John managed to put it in.
When I led on this one, I managed to get up a ways, but I could never let go and drill. We're both interested in what others think. I suspect this would go at 10b, but I was scared much of the time.

FA Details: Ground up from stance

The rock is very solid, other than some loose stuff just before the anchors. The crux is between bolts 5 & 6.

FA Details: Gound up: aid (all the bolts are 3 3/4" S.S. double expansion wedge bolts.)

This could very well be the easiest route to the top.

5.11 to the 4th bolt, then A1 with stick clip or A4+ with hooks for 15' past 3 bolts. Route goes 5.10 for the remaining 60 feet.

Belay: two stainless steel bolt and hanger belay with slings and rap rings.

Descent: 115' to rap anchors

FA Details: Third pitch credits go to Karl, Jon and Bill McConachie in addition to John Barbella for helping during the five days of effort spread over the past 14 years.

Pitch 1: (trad) Climb crack moving left behind tree, cross back right over loose section to belay on ledge.

Pitch 2: Climb the unknown bolt ladder 1/4 mankie bolts to free move to solid hanging belay. The bolt ladder section has two free moves at the top that can be interesting where you are moving out of your aiders on to a steep section, one foot in an aider and one in a pocket. 5.10?

Pitch 3: Move left out of the belay and gain the prominent water chute. Climb knobs and small pockets with closely spaced painted 3/4" rawls (these begin to space out as the you get higher on the pitch). Stay somewhat to the right as the angle of the chute levels off and the chute broadens. Climb a steep bulge with a difficult move up and left (5.11++ or A1 - A0 french it?) continue up and left to belay in alcove.(3"x3/8" rawls).

Pitches 4 to 6: Continue following the water chute to the summit.

3" rawls or fixe in each belay. The climb is well protected after bolt ladder. Hardest move (11++) can go A1. Most of the climb is 5.10 or under. All belays offer shelter from rock fall. 60m ropes recommended.

Descent: Rappel route or descend from top of Old Original.

FA Details: Started 198? - finished 2001 (2 bolts to go at base) I am a long time West Side climber and have worked long and hard on this route. Bolts are solid and painted to match rock . Any slings will be replaced with painted chains soon. Route climbed from the ground up bolted on lead over a period of 10 years.

I also think that pitch and the pitch above (the grove) is a bit overbolted. There is one area where there is a bolt next to a good cam placement.

I am interested as to what grade you think the accurate grade is please:)?

Also, I defend the bolts as adding to the overall quality of the route, in some places they went in fast (by hand) meaning softer rock, so they are closer together, particularly as you leave the belay where the fall factor is high. They are quite camouflaged, skip them if you want or go light and enjoy.

The first 3 bolts were placed by McConachies in the late 80s.

Climb the slab 75' left of Anchors Away to the obvious roof crack three feet right of Bridwell's Delusion Overhangs. Avoiding the loose cinder blocks makes for an exciting .10a slab move into the crack where three stacked tiers push the roof about 8' out over your head. Rock quality is surprisingly good. This is by far the steepest 5.11 in the park, like a tamer version of Forty Days Of Rain.

Note: There may be 2 old aid routes in this area, judging from the fixed pins in place. It is not clear which route was the original Delusion Overhang.

FA Details: Dennis first tried it several times onsight, but was unsuccessful. A week after top roping the climb he led it free using clean pro and without clipping the existing fixed pins.

The route goes up this feature to a point where a short, steep groove exits up onto the face. Here I found and old cratered, unfinished and unusable bolt hole in the groove. I placed a new bolt to the right of the groove. Cool moves up the grooves (sort of exposed for the Sister) lead out on to the left portion of the pinnacle past two more bolts.

We utilized the existing bolt anchor of the Left Route and placed stout screw-links with fixe rap rings on each. Two medium/large stoppers and runners on knobs were used for protection in the corner, which was, by the way easy, but fun and the moss was not even an issue.

This was overall a cool and fun alternative to the standard routes on this pinnacle. The route is definitely more eventful with some exposure and better protected than its other sisters on this same pinnacle.

FA Details: Three Stainless five-piece 3/8" x 2.25" with Pinnacles-colored stainless FIXE hangers, placed from stances in REALLY good pieces of rock.

Pitch 1: Climb the left side of the water chute past 8 bolts to a comfy two-bolt belay in an alcove, the Love Seat. 5.10c PG, 80'.

Pitch 2: Climb past 8 bolts and a fixed stopper to the top of the wall and a two-bolt belay. 5.10c R, 100'.
This pitch traverses quite a bit; it might help to use long runners on a few of the bolts. Go straight up from the fourth bolt to find the hidden fifth -- be sure to look for the "conehead" and use long runner (or more) on the fifth bolt. Straight left from the fifth brings you over to the sixth bolt, also a bit hidden. From the sixth, find your way to the top by going straight up. It might calm you to sling some knobs on your way through this most amazing pitch. Either way, you will laugh, you will cry.

Pro: Draws and slings. Some holds on this route are portable, (it is the Pinnacles), helmets and fat ropes are recommended.

(see Curvature for directions)

FA Details: ground up

This is now a free climb. I added a bolt between the existing 2nd and third bolts. I tried fixing a pin but it came out easily. Steve my partner replaced the existing third bolt. So the route now has four bolts down low in the crux plus a fixed pin to protect the exit moves which are a bit loose.

I recommend double in the mid range size plus a couple small pieces. I also had a 4.5 and 5 camalot. route is a bit loose but not to bad. The upper part is 5.7-5.8.

There is another boulder to the left of the route, climbers must be wary not to pull directly out from the rock near the first or second clip or they may fall into the boulder behind the route.

FA Details: bolts placed ground up - first lead solo

Spiral up and left past 3 bolts to a double bolt anchor.

FA Details: This formation was soloed by Barry Bates in 1968! Go Barry.

I ran a direct route using four of the existing lower bolts and added three 3/8 x 3" rawl 5-piece bolts above, totaling 8 bolts. TCUs and FCUs can be used to supplement protection in three seperate spots.

The route climbs from the pine tree 20' right of Destiny and up the obvious buttress, left over both bulges, the hardest move estimated at 5.7. A little loose but fun.

A decent alternative to Destiny. Easy walkoff to the right.

FA Details: Bolting from stance.

Rappel chains make this a safer alternative to the down-scramble for getting off the main rock.

FA Details: ground up - hooks, 3/8" Rawl, chains

One pitch with some loose rock. 3 bolts (rawl 3/8's) placed from stance. Small to medium flex friends and aliens are essential after the 2nd bolt. A #2 or #3 Camalot can be placed six feet below the highest bolt.

Shares the same anchors as Pynch and Lynch.

Instead of traversing, go straight up/left six feet to the first bolt, then up to a ledge. Climb up through the bulge overhead, on great jugs and incut holds. A final headwall leads to a long 4th class slab.

You can clip an old "RK" bolt on top of a ramp on the right (part of Dirty Bird Crack). Then up a final 5.4 headwall to a notch, with the shared ring bolt belay of Ski Jump and Lonesome Dove.

A 150' rappel reaches the ground.

Flattop Rock is the large boulder found at the top of the knoll between The Shepherd (on your right) and Passion Play Wall (on the left) before you head down to The Bouldering Rock.

FA Details: Ground up, from stance

The route was not reported at that time due to strong evidence that the route had been climbed before and was therefore not truly a first ascent. (See our letters section "Searching for a Route's History" for further information).

For the purposes of documentation we are going to record this route as "Plumber's Crack" until more information regarding a previous FA can be found. The route description shown below is provided by Walton and Miller and reflects the line they chose to follow. The Original route, as speculated by remaining evidence, ascended the fat right crack, crossed 'The Wee Little One' on the horizontal crack near the top and finally toped out using the seam to the right, avoiding the corner at the top. This fact Along with the age/condition of the old pitons indicates the original route was established pre 1970 and probably much earlier.

One pitch with much loose rock. No bolts, I used all my Camalots, 1 to 4. Small to medium aliens and flex friends are helpful, too. Lowe tri-cams are essential.

Start in the rotten flake/book eight or ten feet to the left of Wee Little One. Place a piece in the crack which will take an upward pull. Careful (choose wisely, my son) lie-backing and stem moves take you above a bulge. My # 4 Camalot went in well high in the crack just before I stepped up.

Keep well to the left of the bolts on Wee Little One and place pieces in the crack as the mood strikes. A sloping ledge to the left of the final wall is reached. A pink Lowe tri-cam in a horizontal crack is bomber. I stepped up and placed other pieces (long runners, or rope drag will kill you) in the continuing crack. A number two Camalot was my highest piece and it was good. I then stepped around the arete and climbed the final face to the top.

It looks horrendous, but is truly fun.

Overhung corner/face straight up and then heading right from top of Jorgie's Crack. Pass 3 bolts up this face. Above the face, follow a clean corner up and left, where some small cams and nuts can be placed in a flake to protect the second. Then traverse left to belay on top of Swallow Crack.

It is also possible to go up and right across February Fools after the crux, but your rope will run directly through a large poison oak bush.

Starting from the ledge, place a cam in a big pocket, and traverse left to a black waterstreak with a bolt. Up the streak and out left at the horizontal crack to the line of bolts. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor on top of the formation.

Easy to set up as a toprope.

Due to the lack of protection on the second pitch it is recommended that you rappel after pitch 1.

Pitch 1: 6x, climb 50+ ft. on reasonably solid rock to a double bolt belay. (5.5)

Pitch 2: Climb 100 ft on loose rock to a second double bolt belay. (5.0)

CAUTION! There is little or no pro on this pitch; a slip on loose rock would definately result in serious injury or death.

FA Details: Ground up, from stance

The rock is solid and due to the bolt placed every 5 or 6 ft it would make an excellent beginner lead.

Descent: Walk off is the same as that of passion play (walk off to the left).

FA Details: Ground up, in stance. Initially established in 1999 with removable bolts for use with beginners, permanent bolts were added later in response to demand.

Unfortunately, the bolts are not really needed as the climb has been led without clipping the bolts, by placing cams/nuts in the crack on the right and in the horizontal cracks near the top.

Note: Due to the danger of a long fall at the crux this is considered a serious 5.8 lead.

While some might describe the first moves as chossy and run-out, you quickly run into surprisingly good pro. Past the overhanging hands, continue to the top on clean pro (very difficult to elimnate rope drag), or bail out left to the anchors of Melvin. Either way, this is a tick you won't soon forget.

Be sure to include several extra-large cams and a set of large nuts on your rack!

Start at the base of the buttress that faces The Unmentionable and move 15' up (scary) to a hueco into which you can fit a large cam. Continue up to the top of the first tier where a wide crack offers pro. From there, follow the finger-crack in the shallow corner to the top of the summit block.

No bolts! Pro to 6".

The lower bulge might go free at 5.12. (I doubt anybody will bother to repeat this one...!)

Route should go after Guidebook #121.

FA Details: Free solo

Pitch 1: Starts on S face, L of the arete. Go up the bulge at a bolt then diagonal left to a groove (5.10a hand crack, somewhat crumbly). Near a pocket in this groove is a drilled hole which needs to be filled with a 3/8" bolt (possibly a 5/16" hole that needs to be enlarged). This ends at a grassy ledge with a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch 2: Go up the finger crack (large stoppers) to the arete, then up huecos on the east (right) side of the arete past 7x.

The second pitch is quite nice.

Precursor to the bolted line that exists there now.

Pitch 1: Follow the lightning bolt crack (5.9), 80'.

Pitch 2: 3x in face above (2 are 5/16" rawl with brown painted hangers). Third bolt has been replaced (now 3/8" Rawl bolt).

This is the high point (pitch is unfinished). Clint Cummins is checking with Holmgren to see if he's still working on it.