We have tried to make our recommended routes section more than
a copy of the routes with the most stars in the guidebook. This
section will be changing and expanding over time, so check back
often.
Safe, Easy and Moderate Climbs
Please Note: Page numbers refer to the new Brad Young guide.
East
Side · West Side
East Side
Top Roping:
There are two good top rope areas on the East Side:
Teaching Rock (aka Top Rope Wall) (pg. 86 of the Brad Young guide)
The Carousel (pg. 155) The routes on the Carousel are
shorter, but it's further from the crowds and gets more sun.
For more details, see our FAQ section.
Easy(er) Leads:
Tourist Trap:
Rat Race (5.7 - pg. 39): as strange as it sounds this
big roof really is pretty easy. It does require natural pro,
but you can get 2 or even 3 pieces in below the roof if you
want to be extra secure. (#2 to #3 Cams)
Discovery Wall:
Portent (5.6 - pg. 53): Totally a classic. Fairly sporty
in the distance between bolts but the climbing is easy. Can
be done in two pitches for an additional adventure.
The Monolith:
Regular Route (5.8 - pg. 75) Another total classic, but
very tough start (crux at the bottom). Also pretty run out in
places.
The Sisters:
The First Sister, Center Route (5.4 - pg. 93) It may
only be 5.4, but you'll feel as though you really accomplished
something when you reach the top. You can rappel all the way to the bottom with 2 ropes. Alternatively, you can now safely descend using a single rope via an intermediate rappel station.
Cautions:
Tourist Trap:
Thrill Hammer (5.8 - pg. 39): This is a great climb, but
it's a stiff lead - very sustained. Not recommended for your
first 5.8 lead.
The Monolith:
Direct Route (5.6 - pg. 73) Although this is a classic,
it is NOT recommend for a beginning lead. Very far between bolts
(15 to 25').
West Side:
Top Roping:
Top Ropes here are harder to come by, but try:
Passion Play (5.7 - pg. 258) This is a great climb and
a good (tricky) lead. It is possible to walk up to the anchors
to set a top rope.
The Bouldering Rock (pg. 270) This rock sports some
great problems. One of the faces has bolts at the top for TRing.
The Rookie (5.10+ - pg. 271) Want to play on a really
steep jug climb? You can 3rd/4th class to the top of this one
and TR. Bring long slings.
Smiling Simian (pg. 301) - Subject
to closures for raptor nesting! This boulder has several
good TR's on it, but the only "safe" way up is a stiff
5.7 lead. After the closures are lifted in July you should check
it out.
For more details, see our FAQ section.
Easy(er) Leads:
Elephant Rock:
The Regular Route (5.6 - pg. 264): This is a great route.
It's a little sporty and has a short chimney, but it has a very
high "Indiana Jones" factor. The view from the top
is spectacular and you can TR Mousetrap (5.10) when you're
done. Be careful of the loose rock on the approach slab. Alternately,
if you hike all the way up the trail to the right of Elephant
(to the tree in the notch) there is a short, one bolt 5.8 climb
that bypasses the 3rd class approach.
Machete Ridge:
Dos Equis (aka Destiny) (5.8 - pg. 323): The mega-classic on the West
Side. Pretty well protected and can be TR'ed once it's been
led once. Caution! Use a long rope.
A single 165' won't get you all the way down or let you TR.
Twinkle Toes (5.7 - pg. 323): One of our favorite easy
leads on the West Side. Two pitches of fun climbing.
Notes: You will need a #1.5 or #2 cam for the first pitch and
you will need two ropes to rap off. The climb you will be rapping
over is Bandits In Bondage, a classic 5.11.
Chockstone Dome:
(pg. 304): There are three good routes on this rock (5.3, 5.6
and 5.8). All three are fun and relatively well protected. The
5.6 has great exposure.
More Challenging Climbs
East
Side · West Side
East Side
Recommended
Routes 
