About Pinnacles National Munument
About Friends of Pinnacles
Climbing Information
Photo Gallery
News and Events
Your Letters to FOP
FREE Membership
Pinnacles Web Links
FOP Home

Send an e-mail to Friends Of Pinnacles


General  Climbing InformationRoute InformationFeatured Climbing StoryTrip ReportsRecommended RoutesFrequently Asked Questions


 Recommended Routes  


Download our tri-fold Climbing Brochure


The Pinnacles Climbing Guidebook

Easier Climbs and TRs More Challenging Climbs

We have tried to make our recommended routes section more than a copy of the routes with the most stars in the guidebook. This section will be changing and expanding over time, so check back often.

Safe, Easy and Moderate Climbs

Please Note: Page numbers refer to the new Brad Young guide.

East Side West Side

East SideGo to Top of Page

Top Roping:

There are two good top rope areas on the East Side:

Teaching Rock (aka Top Rope Wall) (pg. 86 of the Brad Young guide)

The Carousel (pg. 155) The routes on the Carousel are shorter, but it's further from the crowds and gets more sun.

For more details, see our FAQ section.

Easy(er) Leads:

Tourist Trap:
Rat Race (5.7 - pg. 39): as strange as it sounds this big roof really is pretty easy. It does require natural pro, but you can get 2 or even 3 pieces in below the roof if you want to be extra secure. (#2 to #3 Cams)

Discovery Wall:
Portent (5.6 - pg. 53): Totally a classic. Fairly sporty in the distance between bolts but the climbing is easy. Can be done in two pitches for an additional adventure.

The Monolith:
Regular Route (5.8 - pg. 75) Another total classic, but very tough start (crux at the bottom). Also pretty run out in places.

The Sisters:
The First Sister, Center Route (5.4 - pg. 93) It may only be 5.4, but you'll feel as though you really accomplished something when you reach the top. You can rappel all the way to the bottom with 2 ropes. Alternatively, you can now safely descend using a single rope via an intermediate rappel station.

Cautions:

Tourist Trap:
Thrill Hammer
(5.8 - pg. 39): This is a great climb, but it's a stiff lead - very sustained. Not recommended for your first 5.8 lead.

The Monolith:
Direct Route (5.6 - pg. 73) Although this is a classic, it is NOT recommend for a beginning lead. Very far between bolts (15 to 25').

West Side:Go to Top of Page

Top Roping:

Top Ropes here are harder to come by, but try:

Passion Play (5.7 - pg. 258) This is a great climb and a good (tricky) lead. It is possible to walk up to the anchors to set a top rope.

The Bouldering Rock (pg. 270) This rock sports some great problems. One of the faces has bolts at the top for TRing.

The Rookie (5.10+ - pg. 271) Want to play on a really steep jug climb? You can 3rd/4th class to the top of this one and TR. Bring long slings.

Smiling Simian (pg. 301) - Subject to closures for raptor nesting! This boulder has several good TR's on it, but the only "safe" way up is a stiff 5.7 lead. After the closures are lifted in July you should check it out.

For more details, see our FAQ section.

Easy(er) Leads:

Elephant Rock:
The Regular Route (5.6 - pg. 264): This is a great route. It's a little sporty and has a short chimney, but it has a very high "Indiana Jones" factor. The view from the top is spectacular and you can TR Mousetrap (5.10) when you're done. Be careful of the loose rock on the approach slab. Alternately, if you hike all the way up the trail to the right of Elephant (to the tree in the notch) there is a short, one bolt 5.8 climb that bypasses the 3rd class approach.

Machete Ridge:
Dos Equis (aka Destiny) (5.8 - pg. 323): The mega-classic on the West Side. Pretty well protected and can be TR'ed once it's been led once. Caution! Use a long rope. A single 165' won't get you all the way down or let you TR.

Twinkle Toes (5.7 - pg. 323): One of our favorite easy leads on the West Side. Two pitches of fun climbing.
Notes: You will need a #1.5 or #2 cam for the first pitch and you will need two ropes to rap off. The climb you will be rapping over is Bandits In Bondage, a classic 5.11.

Chockstone Dome:
(pg. 304): There are three good routes on this rock (5.3, 5.6 and 5.8). All three are fun and relatively well protected. The 5.6 has great exposure.


More Challenging Climbs

East Side West Side

East SideGo to Top of Page

Coming Soon

West SideGo to Top of Page

Coming Soon

About The ParkAbout FOPClimbing InfoPhoto GalleryNews & EventsYour LettersJoin FOPWeb LinksHome


Copyright © 1998-2014 Friends Of Pinnacles. All Rights Reserved.

This site designed and maintained by
Manx Web Solutions Logo